We are close approaching the end of the sew-along. Today we are covering the Continuous lap placket. I have two methods I am going to explain here. Both are very similar. One is used in the pattern the other is not. With that said though one may be easier for you to use than the other so I suggest using some scrap fabric and give them both a try to see which seems more natural for you. I personally prefer the method included in the pattern.
Typically for tutorials I prefer to use illustrations as I find they are more “clear” to see and understand but for this tutorial I have decided to use pictures instead, since illustrations are in the pattern already! I will have a few side by side illustrations though to point out more clearly where the differences are as many steps are the same on both.
Before getting started on the actual placket. You have to cut the packet piece! This should be cut on the bias to allow for a little stretch. See below:
Let’s go through both of the methods and I will show you where the differences are. You can decide for yourself which method suits you best!
First you have to mark your line according to the measurements provided in the pattern. I prefer to use chalk or a blue fabric pencil. This step is the same in both methods.
The next step is to cut that mark open and separate. Be sure not to go beyond the length specified.
Now you will have a V opening.
Method (A) Show in the pattern – You will spread open your “V” cut as shown in the pattern so that the “V” shape sides become a horizontal line. You will then pin RST with the raw edges lined up along the entire horizontal opening. You will sew at an angle starting at the 1/4″ fold and then angle up to the outer raw edge leaving only a small pins width at the bottom of the placket/center when spread open. Then as you sew back out to the far corner you angle your line back down to the 1/4″ fold.
This is a view of the from the back side. You can see that the raw edges are completely aligned.
In the alternate method (B) you will start at the top left-hand corner and pin. The two raw edges are aligned. Then pin at the bottom of the V along the ironed 1/4″ fold as pictured. The Placket will be pinned at an angle. Sew along the 1/4″ fold until you reach the bottom of the placket. Unpin and pin the right side of the placket just as you did the left. Finish sewing along the length of the placket and ironed fold. See photos below to see the difference between Method A and Method B and for a clear picture of the stitch lines for both.
This view from the back side shows you how the petal is what is creating the angle now rather than the placket.
We are now back the an equal point in both methods. From here you will fold flip the placket up and flip the entire petal and placket over so the placket can be folded over. Make sure your seam allowance is pressed toward the placket as shown.
Now fold the packet over enclosing the seam and pin.
Topstitch from the RS of the petal as shown.
From this point you press it in half and sew the 20 degree angle and press flat.
That is it for today!!! Tomorrow is the last day to get caught up. If you are done at this point, don’t forget to add your pictures to the sew-along album in the pattern group 🙂